- This topic has 2 replies, 2 voices, and was last updated Jan 7-1:46 am by ModdIt.
January 5, 2020 at 8:24 am #31446MemberModdIt
I damaged the case of my netbook, repair by replacing broken clips proved impractical. My neighbor offered me a two component
plastik welding kit to fix it.
PRICE 24 EURO, The kit consisted of a small bottle of thin superglue and another small bottle of white powder.
Reading the instructions I found warning of Noxious Fumes and Exothermic reaction on application with powder. Usual do not get on skin eyes
or ingest was at least there.
Sounded very familiar, something I have used a lot is Sodium bicarbonate and superglue. The white powder foamed in vinegar, gas
puts out a flame, not proof but Im pretty sure what it is. A hyped up ripoff.
For 24 Euro I can buy 5 Kilo of Sodium Bicarbonate (I use it for cleaning as well as repair) and a big bottle of superglue which
will keep for ages in the freezer. Put it in a couple of ziplock bags and mark well with Poison sign. Allow it to warm up before use
to prevent condensation. Superglue sets with water vapor.
Superglue Baking powder method is very versatile, apart from component and case repairs I have made some light load bushings by putting graphite in and
on the load surface area. A repair proved strong enough to repair damaged threads in a plastic component. On things like cases or hinges I do add some
stainless mesh reinforcement. A cheap kitchen flour sieve gives enough material for quite large areas, (don’t let your wife catch you taking one from the kitchen !) you can melt prepared mesh or strands in to the surface across cracks then do the final glue soda work. Use thin superglue whenever possible, gel is not as strong. For vertical surfaces you can make a small puddle of glue on a piece of aluminium and let it start to set, it will thicken up somewhat then transfer to repair surface. If you do not wait too long the repair will still be strong. This will not work as well with Baking soda repairs.
Acid will stop superglue from setting or make it very slow and later weak. You can speed up setting by breathing out on to a repair area through a
tube or straw. DO NOT BREATH IN NEAR THE GLUE. Putting a component in to a Ziploc bag or freezer box with moist cloth also helps.
Do de grease carefully and roughen up surfaces to be repaired. Wear gloves, be careful, the fumes are dangerous and might sensitize you.
I also found that fumes can condense on a lens, not a cheap lesson, need new glasses now. My own stupid fault though.
btw. You can use the fumes to show up fingerprints on many surfaces. When the kids raided my spirits they wore gloves and put half empty bottles back, sometimes education is bad, made me laugh, they are getting smarter day by day.
If surfaces are resistant to acetone you can soften and remove superglue using that, or Nail varnish remover appropriated from your wife or girlfriend.
Set it is an acrylic plastic like nail varnish but Poisonous.January 6, 2020 at 7:45 pm #31471Forum AdminDave
This is interesting, probably going to give it a try. I have used the plastics repair but there were two options for the powder depending on the type of plastic in that kit. Also the activator was different from super glue (I think anyway) as it would not go hard / glue my gloves together with contacting a plastic or the powder. After trying the stuff in the kit I have decided to reserve that for difficult / awkward spots. For the more mundane items I have been using a soldering iron with another filler item of a similar plastic type (like zip tie cutoffs, pieces of bottles, old casings, etc) and working it together in a similar fashion to welding.
Computers are like air conditioners. They work fine until you start opening Windows. ~Author UnknownJanuary 7, 2020 at 1:46 am #31472MemberModdIt
Hi Dave, the kits being hyped here at present are definitely cyanacrylate powered, it is not modified ie usage is possible with or without the powder. It is clearly declared as required by german law.
I have plastic welded too, both with scrap and commercial sticks, problems with material distortion as well as brittleness and cracking, due to loss of plasticiser I guess have me looking at other possibilitys. The stinking poison emitted while plastic welding even with a temperature controlled gun or iron can, depending on type of plastic be corrosive when it condenses, have to be careful with electrics and electronics as well as health. electronics.
I do not have a decent microscope to be more sure, a prepared baking powder cyanacrlate weld sample looks as if the exotherm gives a better fusion zone, if more than a light dusting layer of bicarb is used anyway, I take a guesstimated minimum 0.5 mm. V out a crack to do so. It is claimed about 98% plastics can be glued with cyanacrylate, bond strength dependant on prepping as well as type of plastic, fillers etc. With pure cyanac.. the bond strength is the highest if the joint is as thin as possible, with the bicarb I have replaced missing material up to a couple of centimeters with reinforcement.
Stainless mesh also fibreglass strands, repairs are stressed and holding well up to now.
I have used other plastic welding materials, some of the best are only available to industry here, need controlled temperature and compulsory safety setup as well as compulsory etching primers. Many formulated for specific plastics, mostly we have only a guess as to the material we want to fix.
There are retardants and 2 K superglue kits around, solvent glues are very good on some plastics, notably PVC.
ABS and PVC glues are easy to make, ABS glues poorly. A common model making glue is easily made from styrofoam and solvent, will glue many houshold items and wood, wood some plastics.
Long post, hope it helps other users too. Glues have played a very important part in our lives for millienna.
OT: Stone age birch tar or resin composites are comparable, sometimes better than modern glues in appropriate applications and have a very long service life with excellent repairability. Very educational, make and use with kids.
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