- This topic has 22 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated Mar 12-8:36 pm by seaken64.
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dukester
Anybody experience this? Anybody know what would cause this event?
When it happens, the only thing that I can do is hang on the power button and power off.
When I reboot, the “journal” gets reclaimed or salvaged – can’t remember the exact wording!
I can logon, but the system seems sluggish. It’s almost as if the system is doing Heavy-duty maintenance and does not want to be interrupted. :/
inxi -S
System:
Host: antixbox Kernel: 4.9.235-antix.1-amd64-smp
arch: x86_64 bits: 64 Desktop: Fluxbox v: 1.3.7
Distro: antiX-19.3_x64-full Manolis Glezos 15 October 2020- This topic was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by dukester.
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dukester
caprea
Please post a complete inxi -Fxz
Brian Masinick
Here it is
At least one of your sensors reports 65°C; that seems pretty HOT!
That may be one reason why your system HAS to shut down!Try getting a clean of the inside chassis at the earliest opportunity.
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Brian Masinickdukester
Roger wilco! Howto with a laptop?
This ASUS has a vent at the top-left edge blowing warm air. I can put a vacuum hose there to suck out any craptitude. I suppose that I need to break open the case to do a thorough job of it?--
dukesterBrian Masinick
Roger wilco! Howto with a laptop?
This ASUS has a vent at the top-left edge blowing warm air. I can put a vacuum hose there to suck out any craptitude. I suppose that I need to break open the case to do a thorough job of it?The vacuum hose MAY help a little bit, but if you’re operating over 50°C, that’s too hot. I get uncomfortable when any of my systems get in the mid to high forties.
The hose is only a short term measure. Clean the whole thing out and see if there is improvement. If that doesn’t help, a fan/power supply replacement may be the only thing that can save this; otherwise you’re going to ruin the components, if they’re not already damaged, then it’s replace practically everything or get another system. Hope you can catch it and fix it in time!
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Brian Masinickdukester
dukester
but if you’re operating over 50°C
from the folks at asus:
How hot should an ASUS laptop be?
Laptops have been designed to work within a safe temperature range, typically between 50 to 95 degrees F (10 – 35 degrees C). This range refers to the optimal usage temperature of the outside environment and the temperature the laptop should be warmed to before using.
Do I trust them to know what they’re doing? ASUS has never been garbage. Maybe their tolerances are a bit higher than other laptops?
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dukesterBrian Masinick
I told you that you are running very HOT!
If 35°C is the upper normal, I believe your report showed 65°C, 30°C too hot and in equipment destruction range.--
Brian Masinickdukester
You’re totally correct! I didn’t read correctly – the temp IS in Celsius. For some reason I thought it was Fahr. Sorry for the noise! I need to get some heat-sink compound. Got alcohol to clean up. Thx again.
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dukesterXunzi_23
Hi Dukester,
First lets look at facts.Please read the ASUS Info again, the quoted 10 – 35 degrees C is for ambient temperature. IE the temperature
of outside air. 35 C is way below some summer temperature experienced last year here in europe.According to Spec sheet Max continous CPU Temperature is 100C
if you vacuam the cooling vent you will only compact crap in front of the cooler heat exchanger even more.
Do not do so. If you use compressed air to blow in to the vent the lint pad moves aside, it reconsolidates
very rapidly. Back vacuaming as suggested some time ago by a genius user is totaly innefective in a laptop
as it is not designed to make that process usable.Your processor had a thermal design power of 45 Watt, overheating and throttling are common in Laptops.
Usualy if performance drops and CPU GPU temperatures rise it is due to lint in between fan and heat exchanger.
The only way to clean that is after dissasembly.While doing so I always renew cooling pad or paste with a non conductive product. I use Arctic MX4. I also always
lubricate the usual sleeve bearing cooling fans. Do not over lubricate, dust sticks to oily surfaces and will rapidly
degrade cooling system performance. I prefer to use synthetic oil, something like 3 in one is also OK.Never ever use WD40 on bearings, it is a preservative and will repidly destroy any remaining lubricant.
Unless the fan is noisy after lubrication no need to replace, power supply is I presume an external brick, replacement
only wastes money unless the supply is defective, usualy then the Laptop will protect itself and not switch on.Please take care, if you are unused to working on laptops a reputable shop may be best option , it is easy to make
expensive mistakes.- This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Xunzi_23.
- This reply was modified 1 month, 3 weeks ago by Xunzi_23.
dukester
Thanks for the informative post! I’d like to do the job myself but as I’ve never done so maybe it would be wiser to have it done professionally as you suggest. Thx again!
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dukesterBrian Masinick
@xunzi_23: Thank you for your helpful information! I’m grateful for you and others like you. Each of us have areas of knowledge that collectively helps the community and people who visit the forum.
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Brian Masinickdukester
While doing so I always renew cooling pad or paste with a non conductive product. I use Arctic MX4
I’ll look for it! What do you use to remove/clean the old paste? Alcohol?
BTW, in your opinion is this video a fairly decent instructional video on disassembling and cleaning an Asus? I’m going to line up all my ducks and watch the video a couple more times and give it a shot myself. I’m just a little leery about the small ribbon connectors. Removing the keyboard could be dicey too – it seems flimsy. Nobody likes a coward, so I’m going for it! 😄--
dukesterHi dukester, I would look at several videos. I was unable to find the service manual for you.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ny4tyPF1sJE from How-FixIT seems a pretty good example, all
screws sorted as different lengths, different types. Working on a wooden surface, no static,
but he is not wearing an earthed anti static armband.In the notebook center video the person was unsure did not sort screws and – damaged the keyboard
with a screwdriver. Bad.I stopped watching after that point. Looks like you need a very thin tool,
feeler blade might be good if a guitar plectrum is too thick.Take photos or videos to aid reassembly, be gentle. If as you can see in the video the heat exchanger
pads or paste are sticking gently heat them with a hairdryer. that to soften them. Dont bend the heatpipes,
they can be pretty delicate.
You can partialy remove all paste or pads with an old cheque or credit card, finish with alcohol. Be careful
not to scratch surfaces. the guy in the video did not clean correctly ! before reapplying cooling paste.
One pad, the smallest one was not even cleaned and paste reapplied. That is bad practice.
Looks like the device in the video was from a smoker, in any case do not inhale dust..
Hold fan still and blow off dust with compressed air at low pressure.
Brush gently if needed. Under the gan label you have bearing access, normaly no need to dissasemble.
give one drop oil. reattach label.
When reassembling Fan to Heat exchanger use wide tape, I prefer capton, 3M gives other good
alternatives. You need as airtight a as possible seal to prevent loss of cooling efficiency.Do replace the board battery, probably CR2032. Dont touch without gloves, if the battery corrodes from sweat
it will eventualy leak and damage contacts and probably the mainboard.Not rocket science, just needs careful gentle and methodical working. Plus decent tools.
Wish you success.
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